Now that the journey in the Jucy van is over and we have
access to the internet again, I’ve got plenty to tell you guys and gals
about. For clarity’s sake, I’ve
decided to just take this day-by-day, so here goes!
On Tuesday we picked up our Jucy van from the airport, and
being the confident drivers we are, decided to get the full insurance coverage
for $25 a day. We knew it was
going to be an interesting six days when we got sympathetic looks from everyone
we told that we there were five of us staying in the campervan. The side of the van even reads “This
condo campa is perfect for two, great for three, and a party for four!” What does that make it for five? Too small? We were about to find out. Once we were all packed up in the van, we left Queenstown
and headed for a town called Te Anau.
It didn’t take us long after arriving to realize that there wasn’t much
to do in Te Anau compared to Queenstown.
We did find a really cool beach that we hung out at for awhile, and the
girls all got sunburned (despite numerous warnings from yours truly about their
lack of sunscreen). After the
beach, we met up with our four new Australian friends that we met canyoning and
got some dinner. I ordered a steak
burger, and it was delicious.
Complete with steak, fried onions, lettuce, beetroot relish and mayo, it
was definitely a nice change from the usual. After dinner, we all decided to go see a movie we had heard
about from a number of different people when asking about what to do in Te
Anau. Basically it was a half hour
of professionally recorded camera shots taken from a helicopter flying over
Milford Sound and the surrounding area.
It was definitely a worthwhile experience. Tuesday night things got a little dicey. Tuesday night marked the first of many
adventures involving where we could park our van overnight. Apparently the Te Anau/Milford Sound
area has a lot of campers come through, and in the interest of the towns not
being overrun, they’ve developed strict rules against camping overnight for
free (we’re talking instant $250 fine strict). That being said, we were told at the visitor’s center that
there were numerous campsites between Te Anau and Milford Sound that would
allow us to park our van for $5 per night per person, the first of which was
about 20 kilometers outside of town, so we headed that direction. Problem was, it was getting dark and
starting to rain pretty hard, and we had no idea what exactly we were looking
for in terms of a campsite. Long
story short, we were pretty freaked out even after we found the campsite
because it was tucked way back in the woods and we hadn’t seen another vehicle
for quite awhile. It ended up
turning out great though, which leads me to Wednesday.
Turns out once it was light out, our campsite wasn’t sketchy
at all. It was in a great
location, and we had our own personal beach! Even with all the incredible things we’ve done and seen so
far on this trip, it was the simple act of bathing in a lake surrounded by
mountains in New Zealand that is right near the top of the list for me. The girls don’t quite agree (something
about the water being cold), but I found it quite refreshing and unique. The big event on Wednesday was driving
up to Milford Sound (for those who aren’t aware, a sound in this case is a
portion of the ocean that projects into the land). We were going to the sound to take a boat tour, but we had
just as much fun driving there. Up
and down mountains, past other mountains and waterfalls, and directly through a
mountain via a creepy, dimly lit tunnel, the drive to Milford was potentially
the most interesting one I’ve ever been a part of myself. AND I got to drive! Nothing I can say would do the trip
justice, and my pictures probably won’t either, but keep an eye on facebook if
you’d like to see those. Something
really interesting we came across at Milford were Kias, the world’s only
flightless parrots. These little
guys, like the rest of the birds we’ve encountered so far, were extremely
friendly. They tried to join us in
the van on a number of occasions, but it was probably just because they wanted
to eat our food. After all this
adventure, we finally made it to the actual sound for our boat tour. The tour lasted just over two hours,
and was a fantastic way to see every part of the sound all in one day. The boat took us all the way out to
where the sound became the ocean, and then circled back and brought us to the
harbor again. On the way, we got
EXTREMELY close to one of the many large waterfalls that can be found on the
walls of the sound (and I mean close as in the front of the boat was under the
water). In addition to the boat
tour itself, we found the best deal we’ve found on anything so far on our
trip. Ours was the last tour of
the day, so they were attempting to get rid of the food they were selling on
the boat. Let’s just say we got
delicious soup and sandwich combos that normally would have cost us $9 for a
measly $2. Pretty sweet. After our tour, we headed back towards
Te Anau, making a couple more scenic stops along the way. One of these stops was prompted by a
sign advertising something called “The Chasm”. Honestly, how do you pass up something whose name literally
means a giant hole?? Surprisingly,
after all the hype, we were NOT disappointed. I have pictures that I’ll put up on facebook, but it
literally was a GIANT hole in the ground that has been formed by water rushing
over rock for so long. Eventually
we made it back to our campsite (we liked it so much the first time we decided
to come back), and concluded what we all agreed was one of our favorite days
since getting to New Zealand.
Thursday was one of the more stressful days we’ve
encountered so far on the trip. We
drove from Te Anau to Dunedin, which was fine until we actually arrived at our
destination. We found out very
quickly that driving straight into the heart of a city the size of Dunedin
without any sort of plan when you aren’t familiar with the area is NOT a good
idea. While seeing the part of
Dunedin known as “The Octagon” was a unique and interesting experience, it
would have been much more enjoyable on foot than in our big old Jucy van. As a quick side note, we did find a
Subway, and I concocted a new and amazing soft drink. It’s a mixture of a pop known as L&P, Schweppe’s
Raspberry, and Orange Fanta.
Fantastic stuff. Finding a
place to park the van at all was stressful enough, but we were also quickly
informed that “freedom camping” (camping overnight for free) was not condoned
by the Dunedin City Council.
Additionally, all the “recommended” campsites would have run us at least
$20 per person per night. In other
words, we needed to find a place to camp for two nights that wouldn’t get us a
big obnoxious fine, but we didn’t want to pay 20 bucks apiece. This ended up being WAY more
frustrating than any of us could have imagined. After driving around for what seemed like hours, and
probably spending just as much money on gas as we would have on most of the
organized campsites, we settled on a gravel lot near the top of a hill on the
outskirts of the city.
Sketchy? Yes. Just when it seemed as though Dunedin
had absolutely nothing to offer to a group of young, inexperienced travelers
such as ourselves, we discovered a small path leading into the woods from our
otherwise disappointing gravel lot.
Guess where it led? If you
said the moon, you’re wrong…Give up?
It was the ocean! Our
seemingly worthless camping spot turned out to be just a hop/skip/jump away
from one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen. Funny how life surprises you sometimes. We hung out at the beach for a while,
and then a giant raincloud came and spoiled the fun (although it was cool to
watch it roll in). We set up camp,
watched a movie (The Other Guys), and crossed our fingers in hopes that we
wouldn’t get busted for freedom camping where we weren’t allowed.
Friday morning we woke up to heavy engine sounds, and I
personally was SURE we were getting towed. Once I finally worked up the courage to look outside, I was
pleased to find that it was just a city bus getting ready to make its morning
rounds. Once we were all ready for
the day, we headed to the one thing that sounded interesting in Dunedin, the
Otago Peninsula. I had spoken
prior to this trip with someone who lived in New Zealand for a year and a half,
and she said that Allan’s Beach was a must-see while we were here, and
fortunately it was a part of the Otago Peninsula. We headed in that direction, and despite some less than
fantastic weather, made our way out to the beach itself. It was as good as advertised. Not only was Allan’s Beach another
incredibly beautiful place, it had more than just sand and water to look
at. It didn’t take us long after
getting to the beach to come across our first pair of sea lions resting
together on the beach. As we
continued walking, we realized this wasn’t an uncommon occurrence. Towards the end of the beach, we came
across an injured sea lion resting on a rock. He looked like he’d been attacked by some sort of shark, and
has several long, deep gashes on his stomach. We named him Frank and decided we would pray for him as a
group. We can only hope things
worked out on his end. One thing I
had been told about Allan’s Beach that didn’t end up being true was that there
were penguins there. Since this
was the main reason we all wanted to go there in the first place, we decided to
continue up the peninsula to a place called Penguin Beach, in hopes of finding
a few of the little guys. This is
where the disappointment started.
We drove for quite some time, up a number of steep inclines, just to be
informed that the only way to access Penguin Beach was to take the $55,
hour-long nature tour that included the beach as one of its stops. Being on a budget, we all agreed that
we could spend our money more wisely.
As long as we were now at the top of this mountain, however, we wanted
to make the drive worth it by making use of the restaurant’s power
outlets. We hadn’t had access to
any of these since picking up the van, and most of us were about to lose our
ability to take pictures (which is the last thing you want on a trip like
this). We ordered shakes, and sat
down to wait for our cameras to gain some life. There was only one problem with this plan. Once we got back in the van and started
down the mountain again, two of us (myself included) realized that we hadn’t
turned on the outlet that we had plugged our chargers into (an easily
overlooked necessity in this part of the world). In other words, our cameras were still on their last leg,
and we had gained nothing from the long uphill trek. As unfortunate as the lack of penguins and battery power had
been, none of us were willing to let it ruin our day. Once we were back into town, we decided to seek out another
challenge we could conquer. It
came in the form of Baldwin Street, the “World’s Steepest Street”. We had been told that if a person
walked up and down this vertically imposing roadway, they would be rewarded
with a certificate of achievement, which is exactly what we all needed after a
disappointing afternoon. We found
the street (I have no doubt whatsoever that it IS in fact the steepest street
in the world), and climbed up and back down, with a few pictures along the
way. Back at the bottom, we got
our certificates and headed on our merry way. We hadn’t spent much money on food so far on the trip, so we
decided to end the day with a night out for dinner. We found a cool little pizza place called Filadelfio’s, and
Brenna and I split a chicken pizza with cranberry sauce. It was amazing. After dinner we all walked around the
flower garden across the street from the restaurant, and we came across a very
friendly one-footed duck. He came
right up to us and sat down, as if expecting some sort of help. Unfortunately, we didn’t have anything
to feed him, so instead we named him Jeff and decided to pray for him as
well. We had a fun night back at
the same gravel lot campsite. We
made a music video and watch Despicable Me. It was a good way to end our last day in Dunedin.
Saturday was relatively uneventful compared to the rest of
the trip. We woke up to another
city bus, celebrated another night of not getting a ticket, and packed up to
head north to Christchurch. Most
of the day was spent driving. We
thought we would be smarter about driving straight into town in Christchurch
than we were in Dunedin, but it didn’t end up working out that way. It turns out that “City Centre” around
here literally means the center of the city, not a useful place to get
information like its name implies.
At any rate, we basically drove into town, parked, and did some
exploring. We saw some areas that
were still pretty beaten up from the earthquakes they’ve been having recently,
and we came across a couple pretty cool beaches. Ultimately, we found out that freedom camping was permitted
in Christchurch, so we settled into a nice parking lot in the middle of a park
and set up there for the night.
The girls decided they wanted to make a video of how “repulsive” we had
all become from not having bathed in so long, so that ended up being our
activity for the night.
Sunday was basically a continuation of Saturday in
Christchurch. We were going to
walk one of the local trails that supposedly led to a cave, but it was closed
due to potential falling rocks…we didn’t think this was a safe warning to
ignore. Instead, we headed back
over to the beach and watched some surfers, in hopes that we might pick up some
useful tricks for our time in Freo.
It didn’t really work. We
made lunch by the beach, and then a couple of us bought some ice cream for
dessert. I got the flavor “hokey
pokey” just to try something different, and it ended up being really
great. In the afternoon we went
downtown and walked around what’s known in Christchurch as “The Red Zone”. Basically this is the area that took the
hardest hit after the earthquakes, and has been deemed unsafe for
civilians. For this reason, it is
entirely fenced off, and you aren’t able to get very close to any of the major
damage. Even the buildings in the
surrounding area that aren’t part of this zone have signs on the door
indicating that they’ve been inspected, and many of them are considered
structurally unsafe and have been shut down. Seeing this area was one of the more sobering things we’ve done
so far on the trip, but at the same time it was extremely interesting. Don’t be sad though, it’s not all bad
for Christchurch. Due to the fact
that so many businesses have had to shut down, there are all kinds of railroad
cars around town that have been converted into makeshift shops, and it has
formed some extremely interesting communities. You also get the sense from walking around that the hard
times in Christchurch have brought the city together, and forced them to rally
around one another, which is really cool to see. After seeing the earthquake damage, we stopped at a nearby
candy shop and bought some mango licorice. It was fantastic.
After we were done exploring, we drove out of Christchurch, stopped to
grab a quick dinner, and ended up stopping in a little town with a population
of 318 called Lake Tekapo. This is
where we spent our last night in the Jucy van, and basically wrapped up the
second leg of our pre-travel adventure. Now off to Australia!
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